Barbecoa opened in early November 2010. Just a stone's throw from St Paul's Cathedral, it has been described in recent reviews as a place where customers can revert back to their primitive eating instincts by eating meat cooked on an open fire and in a group setting.
Barbecoa's Lay-out and Ambiance
Indeed, the seating areas are reminiscent of the days when our primitive ancestors would gather around the fire pit to eat the catch of the day. And, yes, the meat is cooked over a wood-fired oven, a Robata grill, a burn pit, not to mention a Texas smoker and Indian tandoors. Nevertheless, there the resemblance ends.
Unlike our primitive ancestors, you won't get a huge slab of meat slammed down in front of you - instead you will relish a beautifully disguised, subtly flavoured pig's ear or whole lamb magically transformed into a pyramid of magical flavours and delicate aromas.
The seating is far from primitive, consisting of individual long, luxuriously comfortable leather couches which surround each table. The theme is definitely cave-man/woman communal rather than intimate booth-type privacy. This makes the restaurant perfect for corporate gatherings, celebratory groups, office meet-ups, and similar get-togethers. Each area manages to give the impression of intimacy and exclusiveness.
The lighting is provided by the natural daylight from huge windows or, as dusk falls, softly lit ceiling pendants.
Barbecoa and St Paul's Cathedral
Barbecoa's massive windows look out over the rooftops and offices of the City. When the light is overwhelming they can be veiled in subtle, translucent blinds. The similarity to how sunlight might have filtered through a primitive forest glade might seem rather over-the-top, but it definitely adds to the ambiance.
However, the most stunning aspect of this restaurant, notwithstanding the spacious and tasteful interiors and gorgeous food, is the view of the dome of St Paul's Cathedral. It is visible from most areas of the restaurant and when the blinds are raised this must be one of the most spectacular restaurant views in the world. The dome rises above the viewer, a mighty yet fragile, spiritual testament to Sir Christopher Wren's architectural genius, giving the restaurant space a feeling of calm and timelessness.
Barbecoa's Food, Presentation and Service
The service staff at Barbecoa are friendly, extremely helpful and at the same time non-intrusive. The atmosphere they create is unhurried, discreet yet observant, replacing plates and serviettes when necessary, attending to every need - even taking group photos. Nothing is too much trouble.
The food is beautifully presented - a huge platter of sea-food starter arrived in a subtle riot of colour and texture, looking like a Dutch still life painting. A dish of crispy, golden pork scratchings bore no earthly resemblance to its inferior pub throwback.
Meat dishes are aromatic, smoky and succulent due to the 'primitive' cooking methods. Steak, often a deciding factor when judging a restaurant's capabilities, was divinely cooked and presented - it was like eating buttery velvet.
You can view the whole menu here.
Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa Restaurant for Tourists and Londoners
Jamie Oliver's Barbecoa restaurant is elegant and spacious, but far from intimidating. On the contrary, the cheerful staff ensure that customers feel at home. The views are absolutely incredible and the food is to die for. This restaurant is in the perfect situation to give a visitor an authentic feeling of what it means to be in London. For those of us who already live here, it confirms everything we hold dear about this wonderful city.
So, what more could the discerning diner ask for? Well - if it doesn't quite match up to your high standards you will have a choice from Spring 2011. Gordon Ramsey is opening up directly opposite! He's good - but he doesn't have Jamie's view!
Visit Barbecoa's website here.